A local’s guide to Ankara ahead of the Nato summit

The Turkish capital of Ankara doesn’t have a great reputation, even inside the country. Many Istanbulians look down on this so-called “grey, soulless desert” in the middle of Anatolia.

Yet the city, famous internationally mostly for hosting Mustafa Kemal Ataturk’s mausoleum, is about to host a Nato summit on 7-8 July. I suppose everyone will soon be able to see for themselves whether Ankara really lives up to its reputation as a boring corner of the country.

To be honest, I am not an unbiased observer. I have lived in Ankara since 2019, and I love the city. Its history stretches back to the ancient Hittites. For centuries, it was famous for its goat wool, and it was once an important Roman trade centre.

The Ottomans did not pay much attention to this trading post, especially after, as legend has it, Europeans managed to smuggle some of its goats to South Africa and the United States in the 19th century, helping bring an end to Ankara’s wool business.

But Ataturk had a vision. He oversaw the construction of schools, theatres, large boulevards, ministries and parks in the 1920s and 30s, many of which survive to this day. That is why Ankara is full of surprises.

I have prepared a short guide for those who might have some time to discover the city beyond the Nato summit.

First things first: where should you eat?

I know you all crave kebabs. And Ankara has a kebab place on nearly every corner, often called Aspava. It is an affordable way to dine, and these restaurants usually offer a variety of free extras. But as a foodie, I do not recommend most of them.

I know locals may lynch me for saying this, but they often serve low-quality, greasy, high-sodium food, and believe me, it is not worth it.

Cukurambar

If you are staying around Cukurambar, especially near the JW Marriott and other nearby hotels, you have several good options.

Muslum Kebap: A favorite spot for Ankara’s conservative politicians and bureaucrats. It is a bit pricey, but it serves excellent Adana kebab. My favorite is kusleme, one of the most tender cuts of lamb. You can also try baklava, including the innovative “islak baklava” – next door at Sitki Usta.

Bayram Usta Yaprak Kebap: If you want to try a different kind of meat dish, walk a little farther to Bayram Usta, which is famous for its marinated yaprak kebab – thinly sliced meat cooked over fire.

Taka: A Black Sea restaurant known for its doner kebab, traditional beans, pide and, most importantly, sea bass stew. The restaurant is very close to the ruling AKP headquarters and is frequently visited by senior bureaucrats. If you are a big fan of pide – Turkish flatbread – you should also try Niyazi Kesim, an absolute gem for Black Sea-style dishes.

1071 Manti Cukurambar: If you want to try Kayseri-style manti – Turkish dumplings – you are in luck. About a 10-minute walk from the Marriott, 1071 Manti is not necessarily the best manti in Ankara, but it is still worth trying.

Tunali

If you are staying around Tunali, where the Grand Ankara Hotel, Sheraton and Hilton are located, you may be even luckier. There are tons of options.

Beyond kebab, Turkey is famous for its meze – tapas-like plates full of vegetables, seafood and meat. They go perfectly with raki, Turkey’s national spirit. President Recep Tayyip Erdogan does not approve of that description; he says ayran, a yogurt-based drink, is Turkey’s national beverage. Hard to decide.

Together, raki and meze form the heart of the meyhane, the Turkish tavern.

Afitap Tunus: One of the best meyhane experiences in Ankara. They serve dozens of mezes, made with everything from pastirma to eggplant, yogurt, shrimp and much more. Try it. Another good option is Incir.

Ege Restaurant: If you are looking for a more affordable option with fewer choices, go to Ege Restaurant, which also has outdoor seating in the evenings.

Fish restaurants

Ankara also has some of the best fish restaurants in Turkey. You may ask: how, since Ankara is not a seaside city? Easy. Fish and seafood are shipped in from the three seas closest to Ankara: the Black Sea, the Marmara Sea and the Aegean. That is how we always have fresh fish in the city.

Trilye: If you feel like it and do not mind going uphill, the best fish restaurant in Ankara is in this area: Trilye. Besides kalkan – not quite the turbot you may know, but the Black Sea variety – you can enjoy plenty of hot appetizers. Marvellous. Chef Bros, Yelken Balik and Deli Yengec offer good alternatives. 

More food around Tunali and Cankaya

Masa Başı Kebapcisi: Looking for kebab? You can always visit Masa Basi Kebapcisi in the Tunali area. It is pretty good.

Mutlu Lokantası: What about doner kebab? Mutlu Lokantası on Guvenlik Street serves some of the best Ankara doner in the city.

Cankaya Lokantasi: Near Atakule, Cankaya Kebap offers an equally attractive feast. It was founded by a former chef who used to work for the Turkish Presidency under Ismet Inonu.

Pizza? Try Studyo Pizza, cooked with local ingredients. Its chef, Murat Artukmac, is quite well known in the Turkish culinary world. You can also drop by Unica on Simsek Street. It serves very good crispy pizza, and the hummus is a must-try.

Now we touch on a sensitive subject: kokorec. Grilled lamb intestines, whose history goes back to Byzantine times, are a classic hangover food in Turkey. Sometimes, though, kokorec can be a meal in itself. Kitir, near Kugulu Park, is one of the few places in the country where you can get your greasy, meaty kokorec with a beer.

If you are looking for breakfast ideas, Vina Bakery on Cinnah Street and Kakule Bakery on Buklum Street are well-tested venues.

Esat Hal: Ankara’s new trendy hub

Beyond traditional food, Ankara has more to offer.

The recently renovated market area near Tunali, called Esat Hal, has become a trendy new hub where you can find plenty to do.

Poche: If you want comfort food, this is the place. Poche is a modern Turkish sandwich shop with Kars-inspired flavours and plenty of cheesy, meaty options. But my favorite is their version of sutlac, Turkish rice pudding. It is mouth-watering.

The Log: For burgers, there is The Log Burger – by far the best burger in town. No question.

Halden: When it comes to modern Turkish cuisine, the famous chef Tolgar Mireli recently opened a new restaurant: Halden. It has a large menu, but the sea bass ceviche, half-baked chicken, Cafe de Paris burger and chocolate mousse are must-tries.

Kakule Coffee and Amelie’s Garden: For coffee afterwards, you can enjoy Kakule Coffee’s modern interior design or pay a visit to Amelie’s Garden next door.

Soul Kitchen: To try one of Ankara’s few independent shops for apparel, small gifts and various other finds, visit Soul Kitchen. It also serves good pizza and tiramisu.

Things to see

There is an ongoing controversy over where French President Emmanuel Macron might choose to go for his morning run. Ankara is full of options. Botanik Park, Portakal Cicegi Parki and Segmenler Parki offer green but very hilly routes for hiking and running. Dikmen Vadisi, a man-made valley, offers a scenic alternative, while Kurtulus Parkı is completely flat. But the vast Genclik Parki, which was built on the order of Ataturk himself, could be the best option. 

Beyond that, Atakule is a must-see because it offers lovely views of Ankara’s city centre.

There are also many museums in Ankara. The Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, an award-winning venue full of ancient artifacts, is a must-visit. Ankara Art and Sculpture Museum, Rahmi M Koc Museum and, for modern art lovers, CerModern should also be high on your list.

To get a sense of the early republican period, visit the Is Bankasi Museum, housed in a beautifully decorated building. If you have time, you can also visit the ruins of the Temple of Augustus in Ulus and the nearby Haci Bayram Veli shrine.

And do not miss the Column of Julian, which was erected for the visit of Roman Emperor Julian in 362.